XCARET 26 MARCH

We decide to do one of the water parks before Semana Santa (which is Easter holidays) and the beaches get full of local tourists. We change rooms – get a bigger one with an extra bed, but on the street and very sociable! Take the “collective” to Xcaret Water Park (6 kms before Tullum). We are picked up at the entrance by a big pink bus. The park offers a lot of things to do and after a walk through the gardens we end up at the river ride – a very slow boat, during which we see some nice birds and lots of iguanas. This is followed by the much more exciting and adventurous underground river swim/snorkel. This is a 600 km swim in an underground river, through supposed “cenotes”. We dump all our clothes and are equipped with bright pink life jackets. Luc is once again hysterical when we enter the river and he sees the dark cave ahead and it takes all our talents to persuade him to go with. It turns out to be a wonderful swim/snorkel. Lots of caves with holes allowing light to come through. We are all freezing at the end, but very happy. We visit the jaguar & black panther, butterfly, tapir enclosures. It is feeding time for the manatees and we get some really nice photos of the diver under the water with this giant creature. We decide to cool off and to go snorkelling in the shallow reef inlets. Luc has taken to the water like a fish and swims non-stop with his mask and snorkel. We visit the aquarium – beautiful and even get to see the little sea horses. Run for the Mexican horse show – really impressive rope work! Then we join the rest in the big theatre for the grand finale – Mexico Espectacular – showcasing the history of Mexico with song and dance. The walk in is spectacular – through jungles and temples with people dressed up as Mayan warriors, priests etc. We even manage to get a photo of Luc with a massive snake! The show is spectacular. We see the first Mayan people and two of the games they played – one is similar to soccer but they hit the ball with their hips (“Pok ‘ta Pok - 1000 BC) and the other is similar to hockey, but they hit a round wooden ball that has been set on fire (“Uarkukua” or Burning ball game – more than 3000 years old). We see how the Spaniards have arrived in the Mayan country and how the two cultures have merged to create Mexico. During the second half of the show we are entertained by dancers and singers performing the various songs and dances from the different regions. This includes the Papantla Fliers – four men flying 30 meters above ground fixed to a pole with the leader playing a pre-Hispanic flute. This ancient ceremony was offered to the god of spring in exchange for a good harvest and a fertile soil. We finally leave the park after 8 and is lucky to get a “collectivo” home. The driver is a terrible driver and drives like a maniac – a “collectivo” is like the SA taxis and this driver even behaves like one!
WORDS OF WISDOM : Luc with a voice full of disgust, whilst staring at a group of Mexican girls next to the beach “All the beautiful girls, except you mommy, are smoking”.

TULUM 25 MARCH

Decide to get to the Tulum ruins before the heat and the hundreds of tourists. I am very adventurous and decide that we should walk the, not sure how many, kilometres. Callie sees a bicycle shop and a bike with a kiddies seat and decides that it is the way to go. Luc has no faith in his fathers driving skills and is hysterical when he is put in the chair. It takes good negotiating skills to persuade him to stay on. Although the road looks flat, it is uphill all the way. I suffer, not having been on a bike in years and being so unfit. But eventually I thank Callie for his foresight and myself for keeping my mouth shut for once and listening to him – it is a few kilometres to the ruins and would have taken us a long time to get there if we kept on walking. The ruins are really stunning. With the most beautiful views over the turquoise water. Tulum was the harbour hub for trading by the Mayans whom lived here 1000 AD. The Mayans (Luc keeps on calling them the Miamians!) used their little canoes to travel as far as Honduras to trade. They were invaded by the Spanish who forbade them to do any trade and this basically killed the trade by the Mayans. They were a very advanced society and were responsible for the first astrological calendar. We do beach hopping on the way back, but the wind is blowing and not too pleasant. Later in the afternoon we venture south on the bikes. Luc is not very happy to be sitting behind Callie, not doing anything but ordering him to go faster! We stop for Happy Hour at a pub and dinner at Zamas, where Luc joins the Salsa class (and his mom and dad also try the steps!) and then listens to a good Latino band called the Bohemians.

TULUM 24 MARCH

We are up early in the morning and try to sort out my wireless on the computer. It is really frustrating to know that it did work and now nothing seems to work. Today we depart for Tulum and is grateful for the offer to leave our dive bag with Villas Anclas. Difficult to navigate the small streets with hundreds of tourists and suitcases, but we eventually make it to the ferry – have opted for the fast ferry. Luc wants to sit outside, but it is so warm and the 2 adults persuade him to rather go for the upstairs, air con cabin. It is a quick trip across to Playa Del Carmen. Stunning blue beaches, but also very touristy. We have to walk a few blocks to get to the “collectivo” to Tulem. It is so cheap that we are unsure if the price (25 per person) is in dollars or pesos! It is a 45 minute drive, during which a rainstorm hits us (thank goodness it is done before we get to Tulum!). Tulum is a surprisingly nice little town full of restaurants and little shops. We take a taxi (more expensive than the trip down!) to the Zone Hotelera. Tulum is inland and there are white beaches from the ruins down south. We are staying in Posada Del Sol, which flanks the little beach road in a nice vibey area. We are on the other side of the road in a real arty room with a hammock outside. After a little siesta (Monique) and swim (Callie and Luc), we venture into town to book our diving and do some washing. The manager of the dive shop is a real character (not sure if he is French or something!), but is impressed with our choice of dive locations (this is due to the good recommendation from Pedro’s daughter). We have dinner at a really nice Italian place in town, walk to the supermarket and get some snacks (for Luc, who is still permanently hungry!). The massive king size bed is very hard and all 3 of us struggle through the night.
PS : My Espanjol is not too bad. Manage to order food and get my laundry done by using my very limited Espanjol! Janet, our Mar De Jade Spanish teacher will be very impressed!

MEXICO CITY & COZUMEL 22 & 23 MARCH

PHOTOS : Cozumel from the air. Cruise ship with mural on dive shop wall in front (my photo!!!). School concert on the Plaza. Villas Las Anclas

22 MARCH

I struggle to get Luc up, but the idea of seeing dad finally gets him out of bed. Really sad to say goodbye to Laura and Angelica – it feels like saying goodbye to family!!! (Which happens at Mar De Jade – one big family!). The day becomes one of waiting at airports for flights and trying to keep Luc entertained. It is a short flight from PVR to Mexico City, which I never realised was such a vast city – it goes on forever. We eat a healthy breakfast and then finally gets back on the plane. Cozumel looks stunning – turquoise blue water bordering the deep blue where the reef starts. Callie is not there when we arrive and it takes a while to find out that his plane was delayed. The electronic information board is not working, so we decide to wait. Eventually daddy arrives and Luc is ecstatic! We take a “collectivo” to Villas Las Anclas, which is in town and does not look exceptional from the outside. But inside a pleasant surprise awaits us! The most beautiful duplexes in a small garden, with a charming living room and kitchen downstairs and the most romantic bedroom upstairs. An absolute bargain for the price that we are paying! Even better is the owners - Pedro, who has a fabulous art collection. And his partner, Eyal, a movie fundi who immediately swops animation movies with Luc! We immediately feel welcome! We dump all the luggage and set of to find food. We are a block from the plaza and ocean, as well as all the cruise ships, tourists shops and hundreds of tourists. We find a restaurant on the plaza and indulge in some real Mexican food and Pacifico beer. Go for a long walk down the promenade, shop in the big shopping centre and eventually hit the bed very early.

COZUMEL 23 MARCH
Callie is totally confused by the early sun and thinks it is late when we wake up. He goes into a real American mode – do as much as possible as quickly as possible. Most definitely on a totally different wave length than the 2 of us who have been in Mexico for a month. We try to slow him down a bit. He gets really edgy, until he discovers that it is only 9 in the morning. We try to set up my wireless, but no luck. Then take a slow walk to Rocka Java Café where we have breakfast. Then off to Caribe Blue (the sister hotel), where we chill out next to the pool and the sea on the other side. Callie does some snorkelling, but Luc is not brave enough for the sea and stays in the pool. Late afternoon we walk back and stop to watch the local school perform their play in the open air arena. Little kids with stunning costumes and not much show – but too sweet for words. Dinner at another local restaurant. We stuff ourselves with nachos, refried beans, fried plantain, Sope de Limon (stunning lime soup for Luc), chicken in banana leaf and conche (for Callie!). Walk down the shops, listen to Cuban music on the plaza and struggle to get Luc asleep.

PUERTO VALLARTA 20 & 21 MARCH

20 MARCH

We finish off the last work and printing and I spent some time explaining MAB to Emily, who has offered to help us with writing grants for USA Funding. Then it is time to say goodbye. It is so sad! Luc runs around with Mindi and Carol (who remarks that when Luc is gone they will have no one to blame for their bad behaviour!). We drop Jorge off in Las Varas, from where he will take the bus. Luc is so sad and complains of tummy ache! We meet up with Laura in her flat in Puerto Vallarta. Really stunning area on the hills, with narrow streets and steep parking (Angelica impresses us with her parking skills up the hill – a 4x4 might do better here!). We go off to find food and end up on the beach and I indulge in meat! Luc asks for calamari, but does not fall for Angelica’s octopus (tentacles!). We stroll through the streets. Visit the local church (stunning building) and I have a narrow escape when the bell tolls just as I am about to take the photo! Luc chats up some locals at the church who refuses to believe that he is from Africa – “no negro!? – which means he is not black. We eat ice cream and watch tango dancers practising. It is the most romantic town (Became famous for the film “Night of the iguana” and Richard Burton bought a house for Elizabeth Taylor here). We get home just in time for the fireworks show by the pirate ship! We all end up going to bed late – and Callie phones at 12:30!

PUERTO VALLARTA 21 MARCH
Luc wakes up with his normal “Tengo hanbre” (I have hunger) and gets Laura to help him make breakfast and between the two of them they make a real Mexican breakfast! We chill out at the flat chatting in the morning and then go for lunch at a stunning local seafood restaurant. Luc has pasta with massive prawns – even I who do not like prawns are impressed. Laura goes shopping for the resort and Angelica decides to be our tour guide. We have lots of fun strolling through the small cobble stone streets, posing at funny statues, eating ice cream and buying curios. We hit the bed early as we have to be up early for our flights to Cozumel.

CHACALA 19 MARCH

PHOTOS: Children's Project, Mexican Girls, Luc & Pinyata, Angelica & what is left of pinyata
Today is our last day at Mar De Jade – I cannot believe that the time has flown so fast! We are feeling sad about leaving, but I guess life goes on. Spends the morning getting working on MAB stuff (early), getting a pedicure whilst having a work session with Angelica and the last Spanish Class. We get a lift with Janet to Las Varas – she drives with her 11 month old baby on the lap, breastfeeding! There is a whole group of volunteers at the clinic and we decide to do my post card project. All the kids eagerly start drawing and the most beautiful artwork is created (The idea is to sell the postcards to guests at MDJ and buy the kids things they need). Anastasia had gotten a “mucho grande” cake for our farewell – one thing they really do well here – cake!!! On our way home we get Luc a pinyada. He finally decides on the purple horse. All the girls are appalled that they also have little girl pinyadas – so much for trying to stop woman abuse! We get three big bags of sweets to fill the pinyada and Luc is happy. Back at the resort we go for a quick last swim in the sea and the pool, then it is dress up time. We all agreed to wear our Mexican dresses and I feel somewhat exposed in my see-through red dress. In the end we got lots of compliments and I must add, we looked fabulous! Luc is so excited about the Pinyata that he was not interested in eating. After dinner Jorge & Angelica get all the kids together (and all the adults) and it was time for the pinyata. Luc was blindfolded and then told to hit the pinyada (whilst Jorge is pulling the rope to get it to move up and down. Luc does not have great success and it is only when the Mexican kids get a turn that the things start to happen. Within a few hits the head bursts open and it is sweets everywhere – of course the kids all run to get sweets. At the end of the evening we have 5 lucky kids with hands full of sweets. I hang out with Carol, Mindi, Anastasia and Rodolpho at the bar, before going to the room to finish packing. I did not buy a lot, but really struggle to fit everything in the backpack and suitcase – have no idea how we are going to travel with all the heavy stuff! Finish reading my book and eventually get to bed after 12.

RINCON DE GUAYABITOS 18 MARCH 2007

Start the morning by working a bit, but seems that Angelica and Jorge is sleeping off another late night (some friends of Jorge came down for the long weekend). Feel very sorry for them – another late night! Take Luc for a swim at the pool and Angelica surfaces - we get some work done. Just after lunch we hear Doug and the girls talk about a Volkswagen show in one of the other towns. We join Doug, Betsy, Carol and Mindi for the outing to Ricon De Guaybitos. It is a run down town on the other side of La Penita – with a glorious white beach, stunning little island in the distance and hundreds of Mexicans. The Volkswagen show on the square turns out to be fun – with all shorts and shapes – all modelled up, from a Volkswagen limousine to Herbie (Luc shyly poses for a pict with Herbie!). There is all sorts of curio stalls – most of them have Chinese junk, but we get some nice local stuff, including hot Mexican dresses for all the girls! We wander down all the curio shops. Ice cream is next on the list and then off to the beach. We chill out at a restaurant on the beach front and finally I get my plate of French fries – a massive one which we all share – it was so good!!! We get home at 7 and go straight to more dinner. Angelica invites us to join the friends table and Luc connects with Rodolopho (another one), who entertains him with magic tricks. After dinner I try to get some packing done – cannot believe it is such time. Luc falls asleep half way through Cars. A really nice day!