COZUMEL 10 APRIL

PHOTOS : Marketing tools to get you into the shops! Luc swimming!

We sleep late today and have a slow morning on the beach. Reading, swimming and getting a tan! Luc is very frustrated as the only kids on the beach speak French and cannot understand him! Luc forces us to cool off in the very cold Jacuzzi at the hotel. We take a long walk down the main street. Much less crowed today. End up having a late lunch at La Cueva del Chango (Monkey restaurant – all art creations!). Really good. In funky garden setting with really good funky food. As I said a very slow day – so we take a slow walk back and do some curio shopping. Luc finally gets his Mexico soccer shirt – after massive bargaining between Callie and the shop owner – with Mexico scoring the goal (and the best deal!). We go for sunset drinks at the backpackers joint on the beach. Luc plays soccer with a young boy and a backpacker. He runs back and asks if he could put on his soccer shirt – good for you my son, if you can’t play the game, at least you are good with the window dressing!! Cannot believe that we are nearly at the end of our 2 months in Mexico!

CHICHEN ITZA 9 APRIL

PHOTOS : Chichen Itza (we are in awe!). Luc the photographer. And one of his photos! Swimming in the cenote.

We leave very early on our guided tour to Chichen Itza – the most famous and best restored of Mayan Cities in Mexico (and one of the spots I wanted to visit). It is a long ride and we end up sitting in the back of the combi (not good for my “engtevrees”!). We have to drive all the way down to Tulum, from there through Coba and then to Valladolid. Here we stop to look at the different styles of architecture. We finally get to Chichen Itza at 11.30. There are millions of tourists, and groups, but it is so massive that you can actually deal with it. Our tour guide is very arrogant, but also very knowledgeable. We are astounded by the thought that has gone in behind the design and building of the city. At the vernal and autumnal equinoxes in March and September the morning and afternoon sun produces a light-and shadow illusion of a serpent ascending or descending the side of the El Castillos’s staircase. The Mayans are famous for discovering the number Zero, and also for a much more accurate calendar than what we are using now. Another famous discovery was that of penicillin – hundreds of years before it was “discovered”! To me, the most fascinating is still the ball game they use to play (see our visit to XCaret earlier on). Two teams played this game with a rubber ball they had to hit with all their body parts, except their hands and feet (mostly with their hips). They were also not allowed to kick the ball. They played this game in a massive arena and the game lasted for 2 solid days, during which they could not stop. The aim of the game was to get the ball through a ring on the two sides of the arena, 18 feet up in the air! What makes this game unusual was that it was played by priests and the purpose of this game was to win and then one of the members of the winning team could offer themselves to be sacrificed. This was a great honour, as the Mayans believed that we live 3 lives and this was a step to the next life! We get an hour on our own in the ruins, which is barely enough. From there we go off to a very touristy restaurant, with hundreds of tourists and buffet food. The highlight here is the Mayan dancers. We laugh when we realise that the description of our tour guide of Mayans are so true. They are short people, with triangular heads, slanted eyes, hooked noses and square bodies – no sexy curves for the women, hence the square traditional dresses! We are however amazed by their embroidery skills!
Our last stop is at a Cenote for a swim – the temperature was about 40C and we were very hot and looking forward to this swim. The cenote turns out to be a big surprise and awesome. We have to go down very steep stairs to a massive underground cave with a small opening high up above us and a fresh water pool. Even more steps to get to the pool and the water is freezing, but so welcome! We really did not want to get out when the time is up! We eventually get home at about 7 (just in time for the evening yoga class!! HA HA – we are too lazy!!). Stroll out for dinner at 100% Natural - a healthy chain group, but good food. We are bushed and Luc practically falls asleep on Callie’s neck! Must say, not too bothered by the noise of the hundreds of party goers!

COZUMEL 8 APRIL

PHOTOS : Ready to go! The cruise ships and ferry at Cozumel. Playa Del Carmen. Alambra Hotel (white one on beach!)

Today is our last day on Cozumel – we are very sad to go! What a stunning place to stay and dive! It is Easter Sunday morning and we decide to go to church. About 20 blocks of walking, and we get there just in time. It is an English service and a local choir performs – beautiful! Back home we finish packing up and then go to Caribe Blu to pay for the diving and have breakfast with Pedro and Eyal. Both of them compliments us on Luc (and the highlight is when Luc says to Pedro “It was a pleasure meeting you” and Pedro who cannot believe that such a sentence comes from a 5year old!). Sad when we finally have to go - Pedro and Eyal really made us feek at home and like VIP´s! Now we have a travel with all our luggage and my backpack feels 20 time heavier than it did when we left! We get the ferry to Playa and then walk the 5 blocks to our new hotel – Hotel Alambra. The hotel is situated on the beach just off the boardwalk and we feel immediately home after the warm welcome from Angel. We go for a long walk down the boardwalk – the closed off cobblestone main street, lined with touristy shops and restaurants (and millions of people!). Seems that the party never stops here! We eventually have a great dinner at a Moroccan Restaurant, Matubs, and Luc gets to have Lassi and interesting food!

COZUMEL 7 APRIL

PHOTOS : Courtyard at Villas Las Anclas & the diver fountain in Cozumel.

This is our last day of diving and looking at the rough seas we knew that our planned deep dive was not going to happen. The dive site is the Devils Throat (Punta Sur). The dive starts at 30 meters on the reef and then goes deeper into a deep blue (and this is the one I really wanted to do!). Luc is in tears when he sees the rough seas and I decide to stay on shore with him – so Callie goes off on the dive. We go for pastry and juice and to update internet and once again lunch at Rock ‘n Java. Callie is not back when we get to Caribe Blue and we chill out next to the pool. I decide to do the afternoon dive – this will be the last dives of the holiday!! How sad!!! When Callie gets back, we hear that they managed to do the Devils Throat!! But he only did the first half of the caves – so I don’t feel too bad. But they saw some other stunning things – splendid toadfish, snapping shrimp and a minute sea slug. He however says that he enjoyed the Santa Rosa Wall (2nd dive more). Our dive master is great and also takes us to Santa Rosa Wall. I decide to do a deep dive – all on my own as the rest where much shallower and I did not have a dive buddy. What a stunning dive! Lots of caves and stunning wall with beautiful formations. We see a massive turtle which swims up to me as I exit a cave. I stay most of the dive on 30 meters and eventually have to do a 6 minute deco stop. Which was not too bad, but then the dive master had to go up (this was his 5th dive of the day) and all the other divers decide to abandon me. On 3 minutes my tank came loose and I ended up doing the last 3 minutes with my tank under my arm!! The second dive is on Palancar Shallow, and we see lots of drum fish, I spots a Scorpion fish (the find of the day) and a massive lobster who goes for a stroll out in the open! By the time we get out we are freezing. Callie immediately orders a Cuba Libre and another one for me, and then Victor (the manager) gets us going on two massive strawberry Daquiries! By the time we get home I am wasted – deep dives and too many cocktails! I go to sleep and the men decide to hit the town. They end up eating at a very local restaurant, but Luc hates the food and thanks to him, I get Chinese take-aways when I finally wake up.

COZUMEL 6 APRIL

PHOTOS : Callie and Luc´s day full of adventure!

The weather has not cleared up, but I decide to honour my dive booking (Callie, of course arrives at the dive shop and starts making excuses about his ear – everyone just bursts out laughing!). But the sea is very rough, and we cannot take Luc on the boat. We have to take a taxi to the protected harbour as the sea is too rough to launch from the jetty. It is cold and I have no expectations for the diving. We do not go out far, but much better under the water than uptop. Turns out to be a stunning dive. Great viz and good sea life – highlight was the small pipefish. We go back to the harbour to rest – it is freezing and we seek the sun. Second dive on paradise reef and the mission to find the seahorses. Once again a beautiful dive. First small little reefs and then we venture into the sandy area where we finally find a little seahorse – amazing. Opal (the divemaster) also finds a dragon pipefish – it is so small, don’t know how she spotted it! We are just on shore waiting for the taxi when it starts to pour down! I am freezing by the time I get home! In the mean time Callie and Luc uses the scooter to go down south. They went to the Punta Sur National Park right at the bottom end of the island (where the weather was calm). African Luc was happy to see the massive crocodiles – he must be missing home! He turns out to be even braver when he climbs the light house (134 steps – no wonder his mother went diving!). Apparently he was a bit weary when looking down and opted not to stay on top too long. The Mariners and Navigation Museum next on the list and Callie cannot get Luc away from the big steering wheel. Whilst the divers are freezing their butts off, the two adventurers got all the sunshine! A boat trip up the Columbia lagoon for some bird watching (this lagoon opens up during the rainy season and this is the time when a lot of the sea fish come in to have their babies). The day at the park is ended off with a snorkelling session between the millions of cruise passengers in their life jackets! Luc then meets Bob Marley at a Rasta Bar!!! One the way back they get soaking wet in the rain, but the boys are not too bothered. I only hear later that Callie had a tough time stopping Luc to open the throttle of the scooter! Dinner at Rock ‘n Java - we are now locals here as well!

COZUMEL 5 APRIL

No diving today - we were both beginning to feel the effects of all the long, deep, repetitive diving. We stroll through the shops (alongside the many cruise ship tourists!). Go for a pastry at one of the popular local pastry shops. The museum is a highlight (used to be one of the first hotels on the island). Very interesting the Mayan history and how they also fought to keep independence. Each young Mayan girl had to make a pilgrimage to Cozumel (The Island of Swallows) to pay tribute to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and the moon. Small pox (introduced by the Spanish) killed half of the 8000 Mayans on the island and then only 200 survived the attacks by conquistadors. In the late 17th it became a sanctuary for pirates and then at the beginning of the 20th century the economy exploded because of the craze for chewing gum!!! (Chicle grew on the island!). Then it became a US military base for WWII, and when the military departed fell into an economic slump (need I say more!). It was Jacques Cousteau’s documentary on the fantastic sea life that brought tourists overnight! (We now heard that Bill Gates and Donald Trump is busy buying up most of Cozumel – for mega resort developments, and it is already ruining the reefs!). We struggle to get Luc away from the model of the Spanish galleon – he is completely fascinated by it! We decide to be adventurous and to go for lunch at one of the local food stalls in the Municipal Market. The market is an interesting place, selling fruit, veg, fresh meat and fish to cheap Chinese junk! Cannot understand any of the menus and decide to sit at the restaurant that looks the busiest (well trained by Uri!). Our waiter, who also becomes the chef (small family business!) helps us out and we end up with two delicious fried fish (lots of garlic!) and Callie finally gets to eat Camerones (prawns). It turns out to be the cheapest meal we have had here and one of the best tasting! The boys decide that they still have enough energy for more exploring and once again the set off on their scooter. I sleep the rest of the afternoon (OH – all those deep dives!!). This time they go snorkelling at Chankanaab Park, national park with dolphins and good reef. Luc cannot stop talking about the afternoon there, when they eventually get home. We decide to cook in and end up talking with the neighbour (who’s daughter made friends with Luc), swopping out food and wine! She is also from Atlanta (Decatur – where Liz lives and we will be next month!!!) and is not happy with her husband who when on a diving course last week because he knew he was coming to Cozumel!!! The long predicated rain finally arrives and it pours down (with lightning!!!)

COZUMEL 4 APRIL

Even more diving!!!! Not often that we have such stunning viz and great diving. Today we take the scooter to the dive shop. I am very nervous, especially after hearing that Luc is allowed to help drive the scooter. So with Luc in front, Callie in the middle and myself at the back, we set off – very slowly, as requested by scared Monique! It is not that I do not trust Callies driving, it is the other drivers that I am worried about! Today we managed to book one of the best sites - Marachiabo. It is the last dive site, right at the bottom of the island and very deep. This is what we have come to do. We are with a really nice dive master (Pemba) and other good divers. We fall in and go straight down. The reef starts at 30 meters and then it is a wall straight down. Callie decides to go for it and levels off at 50 meters! 45 meters was good enough for me. The rest of the group is high above and suddenly we see them all go crazy and pointing upwards. I start to fin up and then also see the dolphin right above us. It is playing and swimming in circles! This is about the 5th time in my 400 dives that I have seen a dolphin under water. I stay below it as it swims out over the reef and as I look down, I see the distinct shape of a shark below me. I look around to show the others, but none of them look at me. Eventually I get Callies attention, but then it is too late. We are all on a high when we come out of the dive. Luc is not feeling well – did not want to stay on the boat, and I was really worried that something was wrong with him. He is asleep when we fall over for the second dive. One of the divers run into trouble and abort the dive, with her husband following suit. We finish the dive – really nice relaxed dive with lots of coral bommies. Eventually we both end up in a long deco stop (Callie 12 minutes), but he still spots a ray going up! More time next to the pool to keep Luc happy. He also goes snorkelling with Callie and they have a massive fall out in the water! So loud that the whole hotel hears it. Luc comes running out of the sea crying and refuses to speak to his dad, until he realises that there is a scooter and he needs to be friends with daddy again!!! We chill out at home and have a long chat with Joel (Pedro’s business partner) before going to dinner. We are not sure where to go, but Luc was keen to “get the partying going” (his new line from “Car’s”), so we end up in the most touristy, loudest restaurants of all! Food not too bad, but Luc is tired so we manage to escape the loud tourists!

COZUMEL 3 APRIL

More diving. Up early and ready for the deep dives. We are with our previous group on the same dive boat, but get to go to Palancar Caves. Really nice dive. Lots of swim through areas and stunning wall. We once again see lots of turtles and big barracudas. During interval we beach the boat and get to sit on the beach. Luc is very happy as he gets time to go and snorkel. Second dive is even more exciting. We go to Deleila Reef – with a very fast current. We go scream across the reef (lots of fun!!!). I spot a nurse shark sleeping below a reef, but the current is so strong that I barley have time to show Callie. In the hour dive, I think we must have done 3 different reefs!! Back at Caribe Blue Luc gets some time to swim and play with his friends. We are starving and decide to go to lunch at Rock ‘n Java Café. A decadent hamburger and French fries and we are all happy again. Callie decides to rent a scooter and the two of them sets off on a afternoon of exploration. I can just imagine what the two boys will do without the mother! Going down the street at 100kmph!!! They took the road across to the other side of the island and had a drink on one of the beaches. It is nearly dark when they get home and Luc is jumping up and down with excitement!! Seems that he loved the adrenaline! All exhausted and have a quiet evening at home.

COZUMEL 2 APRIL

Today’s day of diving starts off in chaos. Callie thought that he had set the alarm to the new time, which he did not! So we are still in bed when Pedro comes knocking on the door!! The biggest challenge to get Luc up and dressed whilst he is still asleep! It is a far ride to the southern point of the island where we pick up the rest of the divers and where we dive. We were a bit unhappy to start off as there are certain dives we want to do and they promised to put us in advanced group. This group however is a father, daughter and son who is doing an advanced course and the younger son who just started diving. But eventually we reach an agreement and get to do Columbia Deep, which is a stunning dive! See eels and turtles and Callie even spots a scorpion fish. Luc goes for a snorkel during the sit-out time and loves it. The second dive at San Francisco Wall is just as beautiful. The visibility is just incredible! After the diving Luc snorkels in the pool and then we take a taxi back home (no energy to do the 2 km walk today!!). We have lunch at home and all fall asleep – these deep repetitive dives are too much for us oldies!! We are still struggling to adjust to the new time and cannot understand why we are starving when we wake up – just to discover that it is 8 already. Quick, but stunning dinner (pasta for the boys and the best tuna for me) at Le Chef. Where after I try to get my blog loaded and my emails sorted. Of course, now neither my wireless or ADSL is working. Something must have gone wrong whilst people were trying to help me get connected. I spent more than 30 minutes trying to get logged on and eventually ask if I can use one of their computers. Thank goodness it can read my memory stick and I manage to get some of the blog updated, and screen through the 240 emails (of which about 200 was junk emails!) collected during the last week. They just about kick me out of the internet café at closing time – ohh, it is so frustrating!!! Sometimes we do need the technology!!!

URGENT MESSAGE : To Uri – ET please phone home!!!!

COZUMEL 1 APRIL

The day is started with some confusion, as we are not sure about the 1 hour time change we heard about. It is a bit like April Fool’s Day!!! You have to set your watches one hour earlier – and it is really difficult to get out of bed for the early morning dive – especially if you are not sure what time it is! We were well informed, seemed that half of Cozumel were not so well informed. Divers arrive late and even shops open late, because people did not know about the time change!. We dive with Blue Angel, which is owned by Pedro’s daughter and is located at his other hotel, CariBlue, about 2 kilometers down the beach from us. The day just gets better with two brilliant dives At least 40 meters of viz and stunning walls!!! We see lots of fish, eels, and get to do the Santa Rosa Wall, which is one of the best spots around. Luc is happy to stay on the boat and chats up an American lady who does not do her second dive. In exchange for his wait on the boat, he gets time to swim at the pool at CariBlue. Today he is brave and gets his father to take him snorkelling. Every now and again you hear these screams from the reef side, when he sees a fish! We walk home – a long walk after a whole morning on the boat. The afternoon sleep is fantastic (now we are on a real diving holiday!). In the afternoon I get my computer ready to go to the only Internet shop that has ADSL (my wireless is still not working!), just to discover that it is closed! Ag man – you just can’t win!!! We then try and go for dinner, and once again discover that about everything is closed – the reason for this, no cruise ships on a Sunday! We end up having to go to Café Denis and yet another Mexican meal – I wanted pasta today!!!!! The Cuban band is playing on the square, and whilst we listen to them, Luc gets entertained by a local clown! When we get home we get invited by Luc’s fellow-cartoon friend (and co-owner of Villas Anclas) for ice cream! Late night, because we are still adjusting to the hour time change, but really happy!

COZUMEL 31 MARCH

PHOTOS : Waiting for the bus that never happened. Our stunning flat in Cozumel!

Today we leave Tulum for Cozumel. After a last swim by Callie and Luc, we head for the ADO bus terminal, as Luc expressed the need to travel on a big luxury bus. It is slightly more expensive than the “collective” and we have to wait for more than an hour, but we promised… After a real Mexican breakfast at Charlies, we get to the bus stop on time. But typical 3rd world country (or perhaps all countries, Uri!), the bus is late – 15 minutes. After loading all our stuff, we are eventually allowed unto the bus, just to discover that there are people in our booked seats! Turned out that they have double booked and overbooked the bus completely and with a few hasty Spanish words by the bus driver, we get kicked off the bus. Luc is crying because the man was so rude and Callie looses his temper. In the end we get our money back and get a really nice “collectivo” all the way to Playa Del Carmen. We are just in time for the ferry across and this time we are forced to sit on the top deck! Getting to Villas Las Anclas feels like getting home! The owners, Pedro and Eyal, are happy to see us. Eyal is a movie fanatic (and big animation fan) and Luc immediately scores a new DVD to watch. We are exhausted after carry all the luggage and getting to Cozumel. I take the time to download photos from my camera (now that we finally have electricity!!!) and write the updates (a whole week of it!) for the blog. Luc is hungry again, so we have to go to the big supermarket about 1 ½ kilometres from us to get some food. The units have self catering facilities, so we decide to eat in two of our meals (by this time we are really tired of eating restaurant food and the budget can feel it as well – average cost per meal $ 50). We end up buying a lot of stuff and then have to carry it all home as well! Still tired and take the evening off to watch some TV and go to bed early.

AKUMAL 30 MARCH

Were thinking of visiting the ruins at Chizen Itza, but in the end a day at the beach sounded much nicer! We take the “collective” to Akumal, where we get of on the highway and walk to town (Half Moon Bay). Go for great breakfast at the Turtle Inn (Luc eats a most decadent brownie!) and then visit the Ecological Centre, where they fight for the protection of turtles. The beach in front of the centre looks so stunning that we end up staying there. It is a sheltered little bay with no waves. Big boats stop with snorkel groups, so we follow suit. Luc impresses us again with his snorkelling skills. He screams every time he sees a fish, so it ends up a very noisy snorkelling trip! There are little reefs and we see parrot fish, blennies etc. I fall asleep on the beach and Luc makes friends with a little boy and his sister. Callie has a long conversation with them later. They live in the States and is looking at immigrating to NZ, as they are afraid of the crime!!! Pity I was not part of the conversation – would like to tell them what crime really is! We get back to Tulum late in the afternoon, pick up our laundry, where the owner’s kids and Luc shared sweets (by the way half of the town by now knows Luc on a first name basis!). Luc wants to go for a last Fruppocino at his friend’s coffee shop and scores a free drink! Joaquim says he wants to come and work in SA – loves the wild life! The two boys go for a last swim when we get back to Posada Del Sol and then we decide to take a walk to the famous Italian restaurant down the beach. Two taxi rides later we end up having dinner in the Argentinean restaurant in Tulum (Italian was fully booked!). It is our last evening in Tulum, which turned out to be a really nice, quaint town. So happy we decided to stay here for longer and cut Playa De Carmen (which looks very touristy) shorter.

TULUM 29 MARCH

First day of not having anything planned. We go for a stunning breakfast at Zamas and I have my favourite – Huevos Rancheros (fried egg on tostada covered with tomato salsa). We take a taxi to Tulum, hand in washing and then off to Grand Cenote to show Luc where we did our diving. Luc loves the cenote. You climb down wooden stairs and then enter the water from a wooden deck. The water is crystal clear. We feed the little fish and a heron uses this opportunity to catch a fish, right under our noses! We see a little turtle and a big one going into the cave. The blue water is so fresh in the heat and we find it difficult to leave. Back in Tulum we say goodbye to Luis at the dive shop and then have really good lunch at the French restaurant. Do curio shopping in the afternoon and see real Mexican honesty when Callie forgets his wallet in a curio shop and the man runs after us with it. Luc plays with the daughter of the shop owner (she is a little down syndrome child, but so sweet!). By the end of my shopping she runs after us, waving and saying goodbye to Luc! Tonight we get takeaways from 100% Natural Restaurant (by now we are really tired of eating out!). We listen to Karin Hougaard and Johnny Clegg – really getting home sick and Luc falls asleep next to me in the hammock.

TULUM CENOTES 28 MARCH

Today is our first day of diving in Mexico – and we are starting off with the cenotes! Cenotes are sinkholes or caves filled with fresh water and in Mexico forms part of the largest underwater cave system in the world. The Mayans believed that the cenotes was the conduits to the world of spirits. There are at least 2800 know cenotes in Yucatan (the province where we are). We were told by the dive school in Cozumel that we must dive Angelita (Angel). This is not only the most expensive of all to dive, but also the most advanced. We are a bit nervous as this is our first cenote. Luc is happy to see Barbara in the dive shop and after kitting up we set off. It is a short drive out of town. Leave the car next to the road and walk with dive gear to Angelita. It looks like a big dark pool in the middle of the jungle. Then the most terrifying thing – we have to jump about 3 meters off the cliff into the water with all our gear! This takes really guts from me, who are terrified of heights! When we are all ready we slowly sink down (I am still chatting when the call comes and nearly go down without my rig in my mouth!!). We descent to 30 meters where Luis (the divemaster) tell us to look at him. All of a sudden he starts disappearing into a the ground! It is freaky! We have no choice but to follow! It is in fact a layer of 2 meters of acid in the water. It is dark when we get to the other side and we have to use our torches. We see cliff on the one side and the branches of a big tree on the other. We go down to about 44 meters where we stay for about 5 minutes – my computer goes into decompression. I hear someone scream out, look around, but seems that it is not in our group. Twilight zone….. We start ascending and then into the most incredible scene. As we come through the layer of acid the water is clear and we can see the sun shining through the leaves on the surface. I look around me and see the most incredible image. On the left hand side of me is a little island with a tree on it. On the right hand side Harry, our fellow diver, is just coming through the layer. It looks like he is walking on water and it looks so real that you actually want to take your dive gear off. It looks like a real world, but under water!!!! Totally amazing!! Never seen anything like it!!! The ascent is amazing. The water is blue and we go up on the sides and swim through some little caves. We are all on a high! Getting out proves to be more difficult – have to climb up the side using the roots of trees with all your gear on! We go back to the shop for a snack and gear chance and then off to Grand Cenote about 4 kms out of town. This is a cave cenote. The water is freezing and there are lots of people snorkelling. The plan is to follow the yellow dive line in and then to dive in the caves below the line, turn back and come back with the line. I am not nearly as claustrophobic as I thought I would be. It is really beautiful, lots of rock formations and stalactites. Some blue light coming in through the side. We see some cave divers exiting the real cave areas – there a big warning signs below the water to warn divers where the deep caves start. You can only dive this if you are a qualified cave diver. This cenote has 17 kms of discovered water ways and caves. To do a dive to the end or to explore more you need at least 4 tanks. (To be honest, I cannot think of anything more boring to do – venturing into dark passages with little to see!). My ears really take a hammering with the going up and down, but apart from that (and the freezing water!), it turns out to be a really beautiful dive. I am seriously considering doing another one tomorrow! Luc and Barbara is hanging out at the local coffee shop, where he is having one after the other Frappocino! We all decide to have crepes there and end up chatting to Harry (a really well informed activist journalist for the UK!). Luc once again has made friends with every one from the shop owner(Joaquim to the waiters and is greeted by all when we leave. We are so tired and decide to do picnic in the room – and Luc does a dance show!

RESERVA DE LA BIOSFERA SIAN KA’AN 27 MARCH

Today we are booked to do the national park – Sian Ka’an (Where the sky begins) – a world heritage site (1987). It is 5000sq km of tropical jungle, marsh, mangroves and islands and it is here were the sea (salt water) meets the fresh water of the underground water systems that Mexico is famous for. We have booked our tour with CESiak – which is the environmental group in the park. Early pick-up of the tourists down the hotel zone. Our guide is Manuel, who is a very witty Mexican and immediately gets Luc’s attention with showing to us what a poison ivy is. To which Luc remarks that Poison Ivy is actually the evil girl in the bat man movie! Luc becomes the entertainment of the tour with his witty remarks. After a short lecture we take on the water in tree small boats, crossing a big saltwater area and through the mangroves up the river. This river was used by the Mayans to get to the sea and was a trade route. We eventually get to the massive freshwater lake. This lake is linked to the underwater system and the water pumps up to the surface at such a speed that it is actually higher than sea level. We visit a small temple at the entrance of the river, where Luc is only interested in the bat (Batman’s holiday home!). This is followed by a slow float on life jackets down the river. Luc is loud and happy and full of energy. We are a bit disappointed because there is very little wild life (Manuel eventually tells us that they let the boats go before the people to chase away the wildlife because the average tourist are scared of the snakes etc! After 2 hours on the river we get back for a hot Mexican lunch. The three young girls in the group have taken a liking to Luc and he entertains them during lunch with all his stories – very loud and over the top (so unlike his parents) and by the time we leave every one knows who he is! Lunch is followed by a wonderful swim in a cenote. It is about 5 meters deep and stunning and Luc impresses us by his snorkelling skills – he has no fear of the water and really is a natural. Whilst we get dressed someone notices Callie’s shoes on the side and asks who’s it is. One man next to it turns around and says “It is Luc’s dads. I don’t know what his name is, because Luc steals the show” (kan ek meer se!!!!). In the mean time Luc chats up a really good looking Mexican girl on the side of the water. I make a joke and say to Manuel that we are looking for a baby sitter, as we are diving the next day and has don’t know what to do with Luc. Well, the next thing we know, Barbara (her name) offers to baby sit him (at a good fee!!!) and we then discover that she is actually a friend of Luis, the dive master! Really amazing – there on the side of the cenote we sort out the baby sitting!!! I just love Mexico! The girls are all sad to see Luc go and we are exhausted when we eventually get home. No time for rest – shower and then off to Tulum to organise our dive. Luis is very happy to hear that we are both diving and that Luc is sorted! On his recommendation we try a very local restaurant for dinner – La Cocina Ecenomica – which I think says it all. It is a small little restaurant, with only locals. You go to the kitchen and look at the food and tell them what you want. They are not licensed, but we get a beer in a big plastic glass! The food is real home made and fab! And the best is the price - $15 for a whole meal with drinks for all of us, in comparison to the $70 at Zamas in the hotel area!