Tuesday, April 3, 2007

TULUM CENOTES 28 MARCH







Today is our first day of diving in Mexico – and we are starting off with the cenotes! Cenotes are sinkholes or caves filled with fresh water and in Mexico forms part of the largest underwater cave system in the world. The Mayans believed that the cenotes was the conduits to the world of spirits. There are at least 2800 know cenotes in Yucatan (the province where we are). We were told by the dive school in Cozumel that we must dive Angelita (Angel). This is not only the most expensive of all to dive, but also the most advanced. We are a bit nervous as this is our first cenote. Luc is happy to see Barbara in the dive shop and after kitting up we set off. It is a short drive out of town. Leave the car next to the road and walk with dive gear to Angelita. It looks like a big dark pool in the middle of the jungle. Then the most terrifying thing – we have to jump about 3 meters off the cliff into the water with all our gear! This takes really guts from me, who are terrified of heights! When we are all ready we slowly sink down (I am still chatting when the call comes and nearly go down without my rig in my mouth!!). We descent to 30 meters where Luis (the divemaster) tell us to look at him. All of a sudden he starts disappearing into a the ground! It is freaky! We have no choice but to follow! It is in fact a layer of 2 meters of acid in the water. It is dark when we get to the other side and we have to use our torches. We see cliff on the one side and the branches of a big tree on the other. We go down to about 44 meters where we stay for about 5 minutes – my computer goes into decompression. I hear someone scream out, look around, but seems that it is not in our group. Twilight zone….. We start ascending and then into the most incredible scene. As we come through the layer of acid the water is clear and we can see the sun shining through the leaves on the surface. I look around me and see the most incredible image. On the left hand side of me is a little island with a tree on it. On the right hand side Harry, our fellow diver, is just coming through the layer. It looks like he is walking on water and it looks so real that you actually want to take your dive gear off. It looks like a real world, but under water!!!! Totally amazing!! Never seen anything like it!!! The ascent is amazing. The water is blue and we go up on the sides and swim through some little caves. We are all on a high! Getting out proves to be more difficult – have to climb up the side using the roots of trees with all your gear on! We go back to the shop for a snack and gear chance and then off to Grand Cenote about 4 kms out of town. This is a cave cenote. The water is freezing and there are lots of people snorkelling. The plan is to follow the yellow dive line in and then to dive in the caves below the line, turn back and come back with the line. I am not nearly as claustrophobic as I thought I would be. It is really beautiful, lots of rock formations and stalactites. Some blue light coming in through the side. We see some cave divers exiting the real cave areas – there a big warning signs below the water to warn divers where the deep caves start. You can only dive this if you are a qualified cave diver. This cenote has 17 kms of discovered water ways and caves. To do a dive to the end or to explore more you need at least 4 tanks. (To be honest, I cannot think of anything more boring to do – venturing into dark passages with little to see!). My ears really take a hammering with the going up and down, but apart from that (and the freezing water!), it turns out to be a really beautiful dive. I am seriously considering doing another one tomorrow! Luc and Barbara is hanging out at the local coffee shop, where he is having one after the other Frappocino! We all decide to have crepes there and end up chatting to Harry (a really well informed activist journalist for the UK!). Luc once again has made friends with every one from the shop owner(Joaquim to the waiters and is greeted by all when we leave. We are so tired and decide to do picnic in the room – and Luc does a dance show!

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